Looking down from Prague Castle

 

Prague Castle © A. Harrison

Below me lay a city till half asleep. I stood with my back to Prague Castle, once home to the Bohemian Kings, and for a while the Holy Roman Emperors. Even the name Bohemia sounds magical. A romantic place, a world of fairytales, of knights and princesses, and most likely a dragon or two.

 

The vineyard planted by King Wenceslas © A. Harrison

Although the sun was up, the tourist buses with their hordes were yet to appear. Prague Castle itself remained closed, with the outer courtyard devoid of those crowds preparing to pack the place in a few hours. Dating to the 9^th century, Prague Castle remains the largest ancient castle in the world. It boasts not one courtyard, but a series of courtyards upon courtyards, which wind through each other to the far side of the complex. From here I stood taking in the stunning panorama across the still sleeping city.

Although the tulips blooming at every roundabout announced the arrival of Spring, the mornings remained brisk, and my breath hung on the air. I had been up since before dawn, photographing the Charles Bridge in a chilly wind which all but the most determined visitor away.  Driving up to the castle had been through the streets of a city not sure whether to wake up or stay curled up in bed.

A statue below the Charles Bridge, guarding Prague © A. Harrison

Just below me lay a vineyard, reputedly planted by the Good King Wenceslas himself. In 930 he also founded St Vitus Cathedral, which is in the castle precinct. This area was once a small world of noblemen and their entourages, separated from the real world by a moat. Many had a second house down in the city, living up here next to the castle when they needed to be nearer the Court. From the needs of this world rose the likes of the golden Lane, once filled with goldsmiths, and a cluster of small palaces and grand establishments. Many have now become museums, shops and cafes.

Not far from the castle is the Strahov Museum - complete with A Cabinet of Curiosities. The display ranges from a unicorn horn to chain mail dating to the 12th century; dried whales penises to 17th century armour and cannon balls. And this beautiful chess set.

Beautiful, but unfortunately made from ivory © A. Harrison

As I stood looking over Prague the bells of the Carillon, in The Loretto, called out the hour. Like Prague Castle itself these bells are full of legend, and are said to symbolise Prague itself. They have called the city to prayer since 1659.

Precisely 10 minutes after the bells finished,  an immaculate guard led out two others from the castle in an impeccable march for the changing of the guard.

Picture-perfect guards © A. Harrison

Later that night I returned to the castle for a dinner in a small white-washed room with high vaulted ceilings. While we ate, a couple in traditional dress played folk songs on fiddle and piano accordion. As they sang, I walked out on to the balcony. Once more lay Prague lay spread below me, the lights of the city twinkling in the darkness.

 

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